The
Apple Pie, with its two rounds of pastry enclosing slices of cinnamon
sugared apples, is a North American favorite. So popular, in fact,
that you will find it in some form on most restaurant menus, in every
bakery, in both the bakery and the freezer section of your local
grocery store, and most home bakers have a secret recipe for their own
"best" apple pie. While some like their slice of apple pie served
plain, others like it with a scoop of vanilla ice cream, a dollop of
softly whipped cream, or with a generous slice of sharp cheddar cheese.
There are two elements to making an apple pie; the pastry
and the apples. While my favorite pastry is Pate Brisee, a
shortcrust pastry, that has a buttery flavor and crumbly texture,
you could use your own pastry crust recipe or even a store bought pie crust.
As far as the apple filling goes, you
can make this pie with any firm textured apple that will not lose its
shape when baked. Granny
Smith, Golden Delicious, Rome and Braeburn are some year round favorites
but during the Fall try to use locally grown apples as they have
superior flavor and texture, and there is the added bonus of
supporting your local farmers. What I often like to do is to mix two
or three different varieties of apples which gives the apple pie a
wonderfully
complex flavor. Once you have sliced the apples, the next step is to macerate them
in sugar and spices for a few hours. This may seem like an
unnecessary step as many recipes simply call for mixing the sliced
apples and sugar together and then piling them in the unbaked crust.
The problem with this method is that apples contain water and as the
pie bakes the apples shrink and you often end up with a gap between the
baked apples and the top crust. To solve this problem, Rose Levy Beranbaum in her 'Pie and Pastry Bible' came up with the idea to
first macerate the apples in sugar which causes the apples
to release their juices. Then we simply drain the juices, and boil them with a little butter
to concentrate their flavor. This concentrated juice is then added back to the sliced
apples and the result is a delicious, slightly caramel flavored apple pie. Rose Levy Beranbaum also tells us to bake
the pie close to the bottom of the oven on either a hot baking stone or
baking
pan. This is done to ensure that the bottom crust is fully baked
and is wonderfully brown and crisp. Lastly, when you pull
the baked pie out of the oven there is the temptation to cut into it
right away. Resist if you can. Fruit pies need several
hours to set so that when you finally cut into them the fruit is juicy
but these juices will not run. Apple Pie is excellent plain but even better
with whipped cream or vanilla ice cream.
Pate Brisee:
In a food processor, place the flour, salt, and sugar and process
until combined. Add the butter and process until the mixture resembles coarse
meal (about 15 seconds). Pour 1/4 cup (60 ml) water in a slow, steady stream,
through the feed tube until the dough just holds together when pinched. If
necessary, add more water. Do not process more than 30 seconds.
Turn the dough onto your work surface and gather into a ball. Divide the dough in half, flattening
each half into a disk, cover with plastic
wrap, and refrigerate for about one hour before using. This will chill the butter and relax the gluten in the flour.
After the dough has chilled sufficiently,
remove one portion of the dough from the fridge and
place it on a lightly floured surface.
Roll the pastry into a
12 inch (30 cm) circle. (To prevent the
pastry from sticking to the counter and to ensure uniform thickness, keep
lifting up and turning the pastry a quarter turn as you roll (always roll from
the center of the pastry outwards).) Fold the dough in half and gently transfer to a 9
inch (23 cm) pie pan. Brush off any excess flour and trim the edges of the
pastry to fit the pie pan. Cover with plastic wrap and place in the refrigerator.
Then remove the second round of
pastry and roll it into a 12 inch (30 cm) circle. Transfer to a parchment
lined baking sheet, cover with plastic wrap, and place in the refrigerator.
Make the Apple
Filling: In a
large bowl combine the sliced apples, sugars, lemon juice, ground
cinnamon, nutmeg, and salt. Let the apples macerate at room temperature for about two hours. Then, place the apples and their juices in a strainer that is placed
over a large bowl (to capture the juices). Let the apples drain for about 15-30
minutes or until you have at least 1/2 cup (120 ml) of juice.
Spray a 4 cup (960 ml) heatproof measuring cup with a nonstick
vegetable spray, and then pour in the collected juices and the 2
tablespoons (28 grams) of unsalted butter. Place in the
microwave and boil the liquid, on high, 6 to 7 minutes or until the
liquid has reduced to about 1/3 cup and is syrupy and lightly
caramelized. (Alternatively, you could place the juices and
butter in a small saucepan and boil over medium high heat on the
stove.)
Meanwhile, remove the
top pastry crust from the refrigerator and let it sit at room
temperature for about 10 minutes so it has time to soften and become
pliable. Transfer the
drained apples slices to a large bowl and mix them with the cornstarch (corn
flour). Then pour the reduced syrup over the apples and toss to
combine. Pour the apples and their syrup into the chilled pie
crust. Moisten the edges of the pie shell with a little water
and then place the top crust over the apples. Tuck any excess
pastry under the bottom crust and then crimp the edges using
your fingers or a fork. Using a sharp knife, make five 2-inch (5
cm) slits from the center of the pie out towards the edge of the pie
to allow the steam to escape. Cover the pie with plastic
wrap and place in the refrigerator to chill the pastry while you
preheat the oven.
Preheat the oven to 425
degrees F (220 degrees C). Place the oven rack at the lowest
level and place a baking stone or baking sheet on the rack before
preheating the oven. Place a piece of aluminum foil on the stone
(or pan) to catch any apple juices.
Set the pie on the stone
or pan and bake for about 45 to 55 minutes or until the juices start
to bubble through the slits and the apples feel tender (not mushy) when a
toothpick or sharp knife is inserted through one of the slits. Make sure to cover the
edges of the pie with a foil ring to prevent over browning after about
30 minutes.
Remove the pie from the
oven and place on a wire
rack to cool for about 3-4 hours before cutting. Serve warm or at room
temperature with vanilla ice cream or softly whipped cream.
Store at room temperature for 2 to 3 days.
Makes one 9 inch (23 cm) pie.
Sources:
Beranbaum, Rose Levy. 'The
Pie and Pastry Bible'. Scribner. New York: 1998.
Pate Brisee (Short Crust Pastry):
2 1/2 cups (350 grams)
all-purpose flour
1 teaspoon salt
2 tablespoon (30 grams)
granulated white sugar
1 cup (226 grams)
unsalted butter, chilled, and cut into 1 inch (2.54 cm) pieces
1/4 to 1/2 cup (60 - 120 ml) ice
water
AppleFilling:
2 1/2 pounds (1.1 kg)
apples (about 6 large), peeled, cored, and sliced 1/4 inch thick (about
8 cups sliced) (about 900 grams sliced)
1/4 cup
(50 grams) granulated white sugar
1/4 cup
(55 grams) light brown sugar
1
tablespoon lemon juice
3/4
teaspoon ground cinnamon
1/4
teaspoon ground nutmeg
1/4
teaspoon salt
2
tablespoons (28 grams) unsalted butter
1
tablespoon plus 1 teaspoon (15 grams) cornstarch (corn flour)
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