The
beauty of a sponge cake is that you only need the most basic of ingredients. The tricky part is to make a sponge with good
volume, for while a butter cake relies on baking powder to do this job, a sponge
cake relies solely on the beaten egg. When I consulted 'The Oxford
Companion to Food' on this subject Alan Davidson aptly explains that a good
sponge "starts with prolonged whisking of eggs and sugar which incorporates air,
distributing it through the mixture as tiny bubbles. During baking the air
expands, leavening the mixture with a network of little holes surrounded by
walls of coagulated egg proteins; hence the name 'sponge cake'."
This explanation tells us how important technique is and that once you have
perfected the beating of the yolks and whites to full volume and then are able
to add the two together without deflating the batter, you will produce a perfect
sponge cake each and every time.
Now, this chocolate sponge cake is a little
different from most in that it does not contain flour which makes for a very
light and moist cake; more like a baked mousse or as Rose Levy Beranbaum puts it
"this is more a flourless souffle than a cake". It is also different in
that it is baked in a sheet pan, not a cake pan, so you do not have to worry
about it deflating and also don't worry if the sponge cracks when you roll the
cake around the filling as this is normal. The
chocolate flavor in this cake is wonderful which allows us to
fill it with a variety of flavors. Because of its light texture and taste
I like to pair it with one of the Whipped
Cream Frostings; either plain, chocolate, raspberry or strawberry. You
may also want to serve it with the strawberry
or raspberry sauce.
I
think the most famous dessert made with a roulade is the French born
Buche de Noel or Yule Log.
Chocolate Sponge Cake: Preheat oven to 350 degrees F (180
degrees C) and place the oven rack in the center of the oven. Butter, or spray
with Pam, a 17 inch (43 cm) by 12 inch (30 cm) jelly roll pan. Line the pan
with parchment paper and then butter and flour the paper (or spray with Baker's
Joy). Set aside.
While the eggs are still cold,
separate the eggs, placing the whites in one bowl and the yolks in another. Cover with plastic wrap and bring to room temperature before using (takes about
30 minutes).
Meanwhile melt the chocolate in a
stainless steel bowl set over a saucepan of simmering water. Set aside.
In the bowl of your electric mixer
(or with a hand mixer) place the
egg yolks and 1/4 cup (50 grams) of sugar and beat until this mixture is light
and fluffy (about five minutes). (When you slowly raise the beaters, the
batter will fall back into the bowl in a slow ribbon.) Beat in the vanilla
extract. Add the melted chocolate and beat only to
combine. Set aside while you beat the egg whites.
In a clean mixing bowl, with the
whisk attachment, beat the egg whites until foamy. Add the cream of tartar
and beat at medium-high speed until soft peaks form. Gradually beat in the
remaining 2 tablespoons (28 grams) of sugar until stiff peaks form.
Gently
fold a small amount of the egg
whites into the egg yolk mixture using a rubber spatula or whisk to lighten the
batter. Fold in the remaining whites just until incorporated. Don't over mix or
the batter will deflate. Spread the batter evenly into the prepared pan with
an offset spatula. Bake until the cake is puffed, has lost its shine, and
springs back when gently pressed, about 15-17 minutes. Remove from oven and
place on wire rack to cool. Cover the cake with a clean, slightly damp towel.
Whipped Cream:In a large mixing bowl place the whipping cream,
vanilla extract, and sugar. Beat the mixture until stiff peaks form.
Once the cake has
cooled, spread with the whipped cream and
gently roll the cake, peeling off the parchment paper as you roll.
Can be stored in the refrigerator for
up to five days.
Adapted from Cake Bible
by Rose Levy Beranbaum
Chocolate Sponge Cake:
1/4 cup (50 grams) plus 2 tablespoons (28 grams)
granulated white
sugar
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